High Surf, Niihau
- When
- October 8, 2:00 PM HST to October 11, 8:00 PM HST
- Where
- Niihau forecast zone
- Reported by
- Trained Spotter
- Coordinates
- 22.011, -159.705 (the zone’s center; the record gives no point)
The combination of a trade wind swell and a swell from the southern hemisphere generated surf of 6 to 12 feet along the east- and south-facing shores of all the islands. An individual, a 24-year-old male, was apparently swept off a rocky ledge by large waves near Makapuu Beach Park in East Oahu on the 11th.
Every event with a place to put it; 27 filed by county or forecast zone are drawn at its center, in a lighter ring. Tap one for its entry below.
Deaths and injuries are direct and indirect together, as the offices filed them. Damage is property and crops in the dollars of the year, not adjusted for inflation, and only where an office estimated it.
The episode as NWS HFO wrote it up.
The combination of a trade wind swell and a swell from the southern hemisphere generated surf of 6 to 12 feet along the east- and south-facing shores of all the islands. An individual, a 24-year-old male, was apparently swept off a rocky ledge by large waves near Makapuu Beach Park in East Oahu on the 11th. The search for the man, presumably drowned, was ended after three days without success. No significant property damage was reported.
The local office's own words before the first event, as it sent them, from the Iowa Environmental Mesonet's archive of National Weather Service text.
NWS Honolulu, HI wrote its last area forecast discussion before the first event at Oct 8, 9:48 AM HST, 4 hours 12 minutes earlier.
Area Forecast Discussion National Weather Service Honolulu HI 948 AM HST Fri Oct 8 2021 .SYNOPSIS... A windy trade wind weather pattern is setting up for the next few days as strong lies north of the state. Clouds and passing showers will favor windward and mauka areas with the trades sufficiently strong enough to blow some brief passing showers over to select leeward areas at times. A wetter trade wind weather pattern is expected beginning late Sunday as an upper low and increasing moisture moves in from the east. This wetter trade wind pattern is expected to linger through Tuesday night. A more typical trade wind weather pattern is expected Wednesday and Thursday. && .DISCUSSION... Strong high pressure is centered far north of the state. This places the islands in a breezy to windy trade wind environment. A Wind Advisory is currently posted for portions of the state due to the windy trades. Moisture embedded in the trades is providing for some passing showers over windward and mauka areas with a few brief showers falling over select leeward locations. Satellite imagery shows an east to west oriented band of low clouds a few hundred miles northeast of the state. This band of clouds is forecast to move into the state tonight and Saturday morning likely increasing shower activity across the area especially windward and mauka locations. Some leeward locations will also see some increase in showers as the strong trade winds will be sufficient to blow the moisture downwind of terrain. Beginning Sunday, an upper trough will move close the the island vicinity from the east while an area of higher precipitable water values begins to move in from the east as well. An increase in showers is likely by late Sunday or Sunday night especially over windward and mauka areas. Trade winds will continue to be in the breezy to locally windy range so an increase in passing showers is likely for some leeward locations as well. This wetter trade wind pattern is expected to linger through about Tuesday night. A more typical trade wind weather pattern will return for Wednesday and Thursday. && .AVIATION... High pressure strengthening north of the state will bring breezy trade winds to the islands. AIRMET TANGO remains in effect below 8000 feet over and immediately south through west of all mountains for tempo moderate turbulence. Scattered clouds and showers will carry in with the trade winds focusing over windward slopes. Brief periods of MVFR conditions and mountain obscurations will be present today, occasionally reaching leeward sides of the smaller islands. Showers and wind speeds will both increase tonight, likely resulting in AIRMET Sierra for some windward portions of the islands. && .MARINE... A series of strong highs building far to the north of the islands will keep strong trade winds in place through the middle of next week. The trades will be at their strongest tonight through the weekend, before trending down slightly during the first half of next week. A Small Craft Advisory (SCA) remains in effect for all marine zones today due to winds and/or seas. As the trades winds peak tonight through Sunday, gale force winds will be possible in the typically windy waters around Maui and the Big Island, and as a result, a Gale Watch is now in effect for these areas. Elsewhere, an SCA remains in effect through 6 PM Sunday. Long period forerunners from a building south swell have begun to arrive in local waters. This swell is expected to build today and tonight, then peak later in the weekend. Although the bulk of the swell energy will pass east of Hawaii, advisory level surf remains a possibility Saturday into Sunday as the swell peaks. South shore surf will lower early next week, but a reinforcing south swell will likely keep south shore surf above average levels through the middle of next week. Surf along east facing shores will build today, and become very rough tonight through the weekend as the trade winds increase. East shore surf will rise to well above seasonal levels by this afternoon, then likely reach advisory levels Saturday through Monday. The trades will trend down early next week, so we should see the very rough conditions improve ever so slightly, with a gradual and slow lowering of east shore surf through the middle of next week. The current west- northwest swell will continue to gradually fade out today. No other significant northwest swells are expected through the middle of next week. && .FIRE WEATHER... With KBDI values above 600, low daytime relative humidities and breezy to windy trades winds will keep Red Flag Warning conditions in place through at least Saturday afternoon. A more moist airmass is expected to move in from the east beginning Sunday. This will likely allow relative humidity levels to stay above critical values. && .HFO WATCHES/WARNINGS/ADVISORIES... Red Flag Warning until 6 PM HST Saturday for Kauai Leeward-Oahu South Shore-Waianae Coast-Oahu North Shore-Olomana-Central Oahu- Waianae Mountains-Molokai Leeward-Maui Leeward West-Maui Central Valley-Leeward Haleakala-Kona-Kohala-Big Island Interior. Wind Advisory until 6 PM HST Saturday for Kauai Mountains- Waianae Coast-Central Oahu-Waianae Mountains-Lanai Mauka- Kahoolawe-Maui Windward West-Maui Leeward West-Kohala-Big Island Interior-East Honolulu-Honolulu Metro-Ewa Plain-Koolau Leeward- Molokai Windward-Molokai Southeast-Molokai West-Lanai Windward- Lanai Leeward-Lanai South-Maui Central Valley North-Maui Central Valley South-South Maui/Upcountry-South Haleakala-Big Island South-Big Island Southeast. Gale Watch from 6 PM HST this evening through Sunday afternoon for Maalaea Bay-Pailolo Channel-Alenuihaha Channel-Big Island Leeward Waters-Big Island Southeast Waters. Small Craft Advisory until 6 PM HST this evening for Maalaea Bay- Pailolo Channel-Alenuihaha Channel-Big Island Leeward Waters-Big Island Southeast Waters. Small Craft Advisory until 6 PM HST Sunday for Kauai Northwest Waters-Kauai Windward Waters-Kauai Leeward Waters-Kauai Channel- Oahu Windward Waters-Oahu Leeward Waters-Kaiwi Channel-Maui County Windward Waters-Maui County Leeward Waters-Big Island Windward Waters. && DISCUSSION...Burke AVIATION...Foster MARINE...Kinel
The national radar mosaic for the moment the first event began.
27 high surf. Local standard time, as filed.
As the offices recorded each death: direct deaths were caused by the weather itself, indirect ones by something it set in motion.
| Event | Date | Age | Sex | Where | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| High Surf, Olomana | 2021-10-11 | 24 | Male | In Water | Direct |
After NWS Directive 10-1605, the rules offices file Storm Data by.
Every storm in Hawaii in 2021Every state in 2021This day in weather historyWarnings in Hawaii, October 2021
NOAA National Centers for Environmental Information, Storm Events Database, compiled from the National Weather Service’s monthly Storm Data. Complete through 2026-06; NCEI adds each month about 75 days after it ends and revises past years a few times a year. Rebuilt 2026-09-24. Each event’s entry at NCEI: 983974, 983975, 983976, 983977, 983978, 983979, 983980, 983981, 983982, 983983, 983984, 983985, 983986, 983987, 983988, 983989, 983990, 983991, 983992, 983993, 983994, 983995, 983996, 983997, 983998, 983999, 984000.