Hawaii, 2011

High Surf in Hawaii, December 7 to 10, 2011

December 7 to 10, 2011 · NWS HFO · 12 events in 12 counties and zones

Another swell from a powerful low far northwest of the islands caused surf of 16 to 22 feet along the north- and west-facing shores of Niihau and Kauai, and along the north-facing shores of Oahu, Molokai, and Maui; 12 to 18 feet along the west-facing shores of Oahu and Molokai; and 6 to 8 feet along the west-facing shores of the Big Island of Hawaii. There were no reports of serious property…

Where it happened

Every event with a place to put it; 6 filed by county or forecast zone are drawn at its center, in a lighter ring. Tap one for its entry below.

  • Tornadoes
  • Tropical storms and surge
  • Floods
  • Wind
  • Hail
  • Winter weather
  • Heat and drought
  • Cold
  • Fire, smoke and dust
  • Marine and coastal
  • Other

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The toll

Deaths
0
Injuries
0
Property damage
None recorded
Crop damage
None recorded
Events
12

Deaths and injuries are direct and indirect together, as the offices filed them. Damage is property and crops in the dollars of the year, not adjusted for inflation, and only where an office estimated it.

What happened

The episode as NWS HFO wrote it up.

Another swell from a powerful low far northwest of the islands caused surf of 16 to 22 feet along the north- and west-facing shores of Niihau and Kauai, and along the north-facing shores of Oahu, Molokai, and Maui; 12 to 18 feet along the west-facing shores of Oahu and Molokai; and 6 to 8 feet along the west-facing shores of the Big Island of Hawaii. There were no reports of serious property damage or injuries.

What forecasters said that day

The local office's own words before the first event, as it sent them, from the Iowa Environmental Mesonet's archive of National Weather Service text.

NWS Honolulu, HI wrote its last area forecast discussion before the first event at Dec 7, 3:30 AM HST, 2 hours 30 minutes earlier.

Area forecast discussion, Dec 7, 3:30 AM HST, 2 hours 30 minutes before
AREA FORECAST DISCUSSION
NATIONAL WEATHER SERVICE HONOLULU HI
330 AM HST WED DEC 7 2011

.SYNOPSIS...
TRADE WIND WEATHER WILL CONTINUE ACROSS THE MAIN HAWAIIAN ISLANDS
THROUGH THE FORECAST PERIOD AS A RIDGE OF HIGH PRESSURE REMAINS
NORTH OF THE ISLANDS. WINDS WILL INCREASE BEGINNING WEDNESDAY AS
THIS HIGH PRESSURE CONSOLIDATES AND DRIFTS SOUTHWARD. CLOUDS AND
SHOWERS WILL FAVOR WINDWARD AND MAUKA AREAS. SHOWERS WILL INCREASE
OVER THE WEEKEND AND INTO NEXT WEEK AS MOISTURE FROM AN OLD SURFACE
TROUGH MOVES IN.

&&

.DISCUSSION...
A RIDGE OF HIGH PRESSURE EXTENDS SOUTHWESTWARD FROM A 1037 MB HIGH
NEAR 47N138W THROUGH 38N150W AND 30N170W. THE PRESSURE GRADIENT
BETWEEN THIS RIDGE AND EQUATORIAL LOW PRESSURE IS STEEP ENOUGH TO
SUPPORT MODERATE TRADE WINDS ACROSS LOCAL WATERS THIS MORNING.
SATELLITE LOOP SHOWS A MIXTURE OF PATCHY LOW CLOUDS MOVING ACROSS
THE CHAIN WITHIN TRADE FLOW...AND SCATTERED HIGH CLOUDS WITHIN AN
UPPER TROUGH MOVING EASTWARD ACROSS THE BIG ISLAND. OVERNIGHT
SOUNDINGS SHOW OUR AIRMASS IS A BIT MORE MOIST THAN 12 HOURS
AGO...WITH 1.1 TO 1.3 INCHES OF PRECIPITABLE WATER. BOTH SOUNDINGS
SHOW A BIT OF UPPER TROUGH-INDUCED INSTABILITY...WITH CAPE BETWEEN
700 AND 900 COMBINED WITH LIFTED INDEX VALUES RANGING FROM MINUS 1.8
TO MINUS 3.2. CLOUD DEVELOPMENT SEEMS CAPPED BY A WEAK INVERSION AT
ABOUT 7800 FEET...YET THE ISOLATED TO SCATTERED SHOWERS NOTED ON
RADAR ARE REACHING MODERATE INTENSITY AT TIMES.

MODELS SHOW THE UPPER TROUGH OVER US WILL MOVE EASTWARD OVER THE
NEXT FEW DAYS AS A SECOND UPPER TROUGH APPROACHES US FROM THE
NORTHWEST. WHILE LITTLE OR NO DIRECT INFLUENCE ON ISLAND WEATHER IS
EXPECTED FROM THESE UPPER TROUGHS...GFS HAS THE FIRST UPPER TROUGH
INDUCING A WEAK SURFACE TROUGH BETWEEN 140W AND 150W LATER IN THE
WEEK. THIS WOULD HELP TO POOL MOISTURE WHICH WOULD THEN BE PUSHED
ACROSS THE ISLANDS OVER THE WEEKEND WITHIN TRADE FLOW AS THE SURFACE
TROUGH WEAKENS. SINCE GFS PERSISTS WITH THIS SCENARIO FOR ITS 06Z
RUN...THE FORECAST HAS BEEN ALTERED BEGINNING SATURDAY NIGHT FOR
MORE SHOWERS...MAINLY ACROSS WINDWARD AREAS. POP...SKY...WX AND QPF
GRIDS HAVE ALL BEEN TWEAKED THROUGH EARLY NEXT WEEK TO ACCOUNT FOR
THIS ALTERATION.

THE RIDGE NORTH OF THE ISLANDS WILL STAY INTACT THROUGH THE
FORECAST PERIOD...SO TRADE WINDS WILL CONTINUE THROUGH THE WEEKEND
AND BEYOND. SLIGHTLY STRONGER TRADE WINDS ARE EXPECTED BEGINNING
WEDNESDAY AS A CENTER OF HIGH PRESSURE CONSOLIDATES TO OUR NORTH
AND DROPS SOUTHWARD. CLOUDS AND SHOWERS WILL FAVOR WINDWARD AND
MAUKA AREAS.

&&

.MARINE...
SURF HAS DECREASED BELOW ADVISORY LEVEL...SO THE HIGH SURF ADVISORY
IS CANCELLED. ANOTHER LARGER NORTHWEST SWELL WILL PRODUCE A MORE
SOLID HIGH SURF ADVISORY EVENT IN THE 24 TO 48 HOURS. SURF WILL
BUILD LATE TODAY AND THURSDAY ON NORTH AND WEST FACING
SHORES...REACHING UP TO 20 FOOT FACE HEIGHTS AS IT PEAKS LATE
THURSDAY AND EARLY FRIDAY...FOLLOWED BY A GRADUAL DECLINE INTO THE
WEEKEND. A HIGH SURF ADVISORY FOR THIS UPCOMING EVENT WILL BE ISSUED
LATER TODAY.

TRADE WINDS HAVE ALREADY INCREASED ABOVE ADVISORY THRESHOLD OVER THE
TYPICALLY WINDIER WATERS SURROUNDING MAUI AND THE BIG ISLAND THIS
MORNING...SO SMALL CRAFT ADVISORIES FOR THESE AREAS ARE NOW IN
EFFECT. THIS ADVISORY WILL LIKELY NEED TO BE EXPANDED TO INCLUDE
MORE AREAS FOR COMBINED SEAS REACHING 10 FEET OR MORE WITH THE
INCOMING NORTHWEST SWELL THURSDAY.

&&

.HFO WATCHES/WARNINGS/ADVISORIES...
SMALL CRAFT ADVISORY FROM 6 AM HST WEDNESDAY THROUGH 6 PM HST
THURSDAY FOR PAILOLO AND ALENUIHAHA CHANNELS...MAALAEA BAY AND THE
LEEWARD AND SOUTHEASTERN BIG ISLAND WATERS.

&&

POWELL

The radar

The national radar mosaic for the moment the first event began.

Open the radar archive at this moment

Event by event

12 high surf. Local standard time, as filed.

High Surf, Niihau

When
December 7, 6:00 AM HST to December 10, 12:00 PM HST
Where
Niihau forecast zone
Reported by
Trained Spotter
Coordinates
22.011, -159.705 (the zone’s center; the record gives no point)

High Surf, Kauai Windward

When
December 7, 6:00 AM HST to December 10, 12:00 PM HST
Where
Kauai Windward forecast zone
Reported by
Trained Spotter

High Surf, Kauai Leeward

When
December 7, 6:00 AM HST to December 10, 12:00 PM HST
Where
Kauai Leeward forecast zone
Reported by
Trained Spotter
Coordinates
22.011, -159.705 (the zone’s center; the record gives no point)

High Surf, Waianae Coast

When
December 7, 6:00 AM HST to December 10, 12:00 PM HST
Where
Waianae Coast forecast zone
Reported by
Trained Spotter
Coordinates
21.455, -157.961 (the zone’s center; the record gives no point)

High Surf, Oahu North Shore

When
December 7, 6:00 AM HST to December 10, 12:00 PM HST
Where
Oahu North Shore forecast zone
Reported by
Trained Spotter
Coordinates
21.455, -157.961 (the zone’s center; the record gives no point)

High Surf, Oahu Koolau

When
December 7, 6:00 AM HST to December 10, 12:00 PM HST
Where
Oahu Koolau forecast zone
Reported by
Trained Spotter

High Surf, Molokai Windward

When
December 7, 6:00 AM HST to December 10, 12:00 PM HST
Where
Molokai Windward forecast zone
Reported by
Trained Spotter

High Surf, Molokai Leeward

When
December 7, 6:00 AM HST to December 10, 12:00 PM HST
Where
Molokai Leeward forecast zone
Reported by
Trained Spotter

High Surf, Maui Windward West

When
December 7, 6:00 AM HST to December 10, 12:00 PM HST
Where
Maui Windward West forecast zone
Reported by
Trained Spotter
Coordinates
21.027, -156.788 (the zone’s center; the record gives no point)

High Surf, Maui Central Valley

When
December 7, 6:00 AM HST to December 10, 12:00 PM HST
Where
Maui Central Valley forecast zone
Reported by
Trained Spotter

High Surf, Windward Haleakala

When
December 7, 6:00 AM HST to December 10, 12:00 PM HST
Where
Windward Haleakala forecast zone
Reported by
Trained Spotter

High Surf, Kona

When
December 7, 6:00 AM HST to December 10, 12:00 PM HST
Where
Kona forecast zone
Reported by
Trained Spotter
Coordinates
19.602, -155.523 (the zone’s center; the record gives no point)

What these are

High Surf
Large waves breaking on the shore that caused damage, erosion or casualties.

After NWS Directive 10-1605, the rules offices file Storm Data by.

The same day elsewhere

More

Every storm in Hawaii in 2011Every state in 2011This day in weather historyWarnings in Hawaii, December 2011

Sources

NOAA National Centers for Environmental Information, Storm Events Database, compiled from the National Weather Service’s monthly Storm Data. Complete through 2026-06; NCEI adds each month about 75 days after it ends and revises past years a few times a year. Rebuilt 2026-09-24. Each event’s entry at NCEI: 353553, 353554, 353555, 353556, 353557, 353558, 353559, 353560, 353561, 353562, 353563, 353564.